The oldest Russian lighthouse named Tolbukhin is 300 years old. It stands on an island 4 miles away from the shore. The island is a restricted territory, only the keeper and his family may visit it.

In winter you can ski around the lighthouse and if you are lucky - meet its inhabitants. The keeper and his wife run the place with the help of 5 cats and 2 dogs. I was wecomed by an adorable Alaskan Malamute Maya - the most friendly and playful creature in this snow desert. Recently she gave birth to nine puppies - follow Tolbukhins Youtube to watch them!

I skied to the place alone and on the way back was caught in a blizzard. That was a bit creepy and fascinating at the same time. It ended up quite soon. My reward was a stunning pink sunset - and hot tea in my car after a long ski hike in total darkness.